Composite based on nylon PA66 GF 30 with the addition of 30% fiberglass.
Attention! Before printing, it is necessary to dry the plastic for 4-5 hours at a temperature of 80-90C
Print Options:
- Nozzle temperature 305-320°C
- Printing table temperature 140°
- Blowing the model is not recommended
- Print speed up to 100 mm / s
- Plastic feed (Flow) 100%
- Nozzle diameter from 0.4 mm (min)
- Min. layer height from 0.1 mm
- Volumetric resistance 1.0 E+15
- Long-term operation temperature 205°C
- Short-term operating temperature 250°C
- Rod diameter tolerance 0.03 mm
- Quantity per coil ~ 240m
- Maximum tensile strength 190 Mpa
- Shore D Hardness –
- Elongation at break 3%
- Tensile modulus of elasticity 9000 Mpa
- Heat resistance (min / max) -60 to +250°C
- Density 1.36 g / cm3
- Notched Sharpie impact strength (+23°C) 11 kj / m2
- Notched Sharpie impact strength (-30°C) 10 kj / m2
- Moisture absorption 1.7%
Shrinkage in the manufacture of products 1.1% Well, that’s it, my dear friends. I hope this information was useful for you. Anatoly Yunakh was with you.
Look, according to my internal classification, which I invented for myself, you will not find it anywhere, this is the so-called under-hood plastic. That is, the parts printed from this plastic must be highly loaded and at high temperatures. Unnatural for home printing. This plastic is impractical. Corny, again, well, not everyone has a house a la designer X, to print just for fun all sorts of toys from it. Especially, quite the same, fastidious in preparing for printing. That is, we only print it immediately after drying. Moreover, drying is not an hour, not two, but at least six hours, ideally 10-12 hours, then it gives decent results. But again, the PA66 GF 30 is glass-filled only so that it is physically possible to print at all, because even with the GF30, it is quite capricious, in fact, during printing. Therefore, given that the table is 140, plus the camera must necessarily be about 70, the print temperature is sky-high. On home printers, you can not print this, and the finished products printed from it will be very expensive. Therefore, it is a commercial plastic, very highly specialized. I can recommend it to a major studio. Only large studios that are closely engaged in commercial printing, if there are orders for such, so to speak, technical properties of plastic. Well, you can keep at least a coil in reserve again. What alternatives do we have? In principle, and there are no them, at least from the budget. For home printing, this plastic is absolutely not suitable.
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